The chapter Broadening Representational Boundaries in Noliew Rooks' "Hair Raising: Beauty, Culture, and African-American Women", embodies the concept of the "New Negro" by illustrating the ways in which key figures in early the cultivation of African-American beauty culture, like Madame CJ Walker, were able to reconfigure what constituted as an "acceptable" representation of blackness within the public sphere. My thesis "the politics of white supremacy has shaped the ideology of the black beauty culture and influenced the formation of what the "new negro" was constructed to be." In relation to this, Rooks demonstrates the way in which black beauty culture was constructed to fit into a certain type of image for blacks. She also illustrates within her analysis, the conflicting views of Locke and Baldwin regarding what image and stature the "new negro" should represent. Contrary to the argument made by Locke about the "new negro" belonging to intellectual and powerful among the race, Rooks examination of Madame CJ Walkers agrees with Baldwin’s’ conflicting view of the “new negro” being everyday blacks with the ability to influence blackness within white society.
Rooks specifically examines way in which Madame CJ Walker aligned herself with middle class African-American businessmen as a method to boast her product visibility. However, within doing so, Walker remained suspicious of the motivations behind efforts to "uplift the masses" and to position middle class identity as the sole model of success and leadership (Rooks, 76). This connection to the ideological debate about the who is to represent the "new negro" and the attitude reflected by a key member in the formation of beauty culture aids in looking at the way in which beauty culture in relation to representation was important in the establishment of what it meant to be the "new negro". Rooks also goes to show that contrary to what she wanted her image to reflect “ the construction and distribution of her image had the effect of reconfiguring the terms of representation for African Americans within the public sphere” (Rooks, 88). In relation to my papers thesis, this source is extremely significant because through looking at how Walkers’ image was reconfigured in order to resemble what it meant to be a respectable woman in the eyes of whiteness.